The other day, I was thinking; "No one ever really bothers to explain certain brands any further since they're so widely known amongst lolitas, but what about newbies?" so here's me explaining various brands!
This post would've been very helpful to me when I was new to the fashion, actually, as well... I thought Metamorphose was primarily gothic lolita for some reason?? I think I mixed them up with Moi Meme Moitie once and just never thought about it. Anywho! If you're this posts target audience, you're probably confused, so let's get onto the explaining! This'll have names, photos, minor history, shorthands, designers, sites, and what items/styles they're primarily known for! ♪
Please note this is only meant to give brief histories and history sections are not super fact-checked! Please check my sources for more detailed histories. Please inform me of any mistakes and do not use this as a formal source, trust me. I hope to remedy this in the future. The social media sections are also not super thorough. If you have anything to add, please tell me~
"(unclear)" is intended to be an entire section being unclear, while "(?)' is just intended to be the one part.
For abbreviations: * = Most common abbreviation in Western spaces, ** = Most common abbreviation in Japan (if I know it)
LAST UPDATED: March 7, 2025.
Angelic Pretty
Angelic Pretty, a Japanese brand, is the pinnacle of sweet lolita to some and a quintessential lolita brand. They're known for their fabric prints & tea party shoes. They're also responsible for most iconic sweet prints you will hear about, such as Milky★Planet and Dream Marine. Their bright pink polka-dot bow logo is iconic.
In 1979, Hiroko Honda founded "Pretty" as a select shop² in Laforet Harajuku¹. They stocked other fashion brands, including many on this list. It seems Angelic Pretty as a brand started in 2001, with them fully phasing out all other brands (with joint ventures and international stores run by other companies as an exception) sometime after 2006 after having made efforts to do so since the brand started. Pretty did release some items as a brand while they were a select shop. In 2010 their San Francisco store with Harajuku Hearts opened. They now have two locations in China and one in Paris, France as well.
About Mascots: They have a few mascots, Milky-Chan the Fawn, Milky Bear, Shy Bear, and Lyrical Bunny are the ones you will likely see the most. The last three appear on prints or as bags fairly regularly, but Milky-Chan hasn't had a dedicated product since 2009 (at least not one with Milky-Chan in the name). Also, I am not too well-versed in their mascots and couldn't find a real list, only some history which mainly focused on Lyrical Bunny or Shy Bear, my apologies.
Brand concept: Angelic Pretty provides adorable clothing covered in lace, frills and ribbon like a fairytale princess you dreamed about as a little girl. We want girls to never lose sight of that dream. This is a brand for girls who want to keep that dream alive. (Typos fixed)
Founded: 1979 (Pretty), 2001 (Angelic Pretty)
Designer(s): Asuka (CEO?, unknown to me if still designer), Maki, Honoka, Chisa (unclear)
Abbreviation/acronym(s): AP*
Japanese: Angelic Pretty OR アンジェリックプリティ
Social Media: Main Instagram (their other Instagram accounts can be seen in their following list), SF Facebook
BABY, The Stars Shine Bright
Known mainly for Usakumya and Kuma kumya, their brand mascots, BABY is an iconic Japanese brand featuring many different styles–though their sub-brand ALICE and The PIRATES is where any more gothic ideas tend to go–with over 20 stores in Japan, one store in France, and one store in California, USA.
About Mascots: Usakumya is a bear who wanted long ears like a rabbit. A girl saw him crying and pulling at his ears trying to make them longer, and gave him a bunny ear bonnet. "Bunnybear" is used to refer to Usakumya, and occasionally the other "Kumya"'s. Kuma Kumya came later, and is a bear dressed as a bear. There are also a few one-off animals, Neko Kumya (dressed as a cat) appearing the most often. The previously mentioned girl states that where she is from, all bears are called "Kumya" in Usakumya's backstory. These bears are often seen as "pochettes" but are incorporated in many other products. Note: the Kumya's have inconsistent genders. I call them all "he" personally, but some are intended to be female I believe.
According to their somewhat outdated yet updated English blog, "Established in 1988, Baby, the Stars Shine Bright is a lolita fashion clothing brand founded by Akinori and Fumiyo Isobe in Tokyo, Japan" Their first store opened in 1999, with their first international store in Paris opening in 2006. They have since opened two stores in the US, with one since closing, and participated in New York Fashion Week 2024 via Global Fashion Collective (They have a timeline on their website). The popular novel-turned-movie Kamikaze Girls featured a main character going to the store and wearing their clothing.
Also The brand was named after an Everything But the Girl album. I just wanted to mention this.
Brand concept: In a time when one truly felt cute and elegant like a beautiful princess, happily dressing up in fancy frills and lace. Our Lolita designs bear this mindset.
Founded: 1988
Designer(s): Kumiko Uehara, Kano Masumi, Saki Tachibana, Mitsuki Yasui(?), Mimi (unclear)
Abbreviation/acronym(s): BTSSB*, BABY**, BABYSSB (only used by them as far as I've seen)
Japanese: BABY, The Stars Shine Bright OR ベイビー、ザスターズシャインブライト (occasionally a star symbol [☆ or ★] is after "BABY" in place of a comma)
Social Media: Main Instagram (their other Instagram accounts can be seen in their following list)
Sites: Main, SF online shop, JP online shop
ALICE and the PIRATES
ALICE and the PIRATES is BTSSB's edgier counterpart, otherwise known as their sub-brand. They make gothic lolita, with some branching into classic or wa, and ouji.
See BABY's history section. ALICE and the PIRATES was founded in 2004.
About Mascots: They have a mascot of Captain Chris, a platinum fox (not a wolf!). Captain Chris was released in 2020.
Brand concept: 少女アリスが海賊の世界に迷い込んでしまったら…をテーマに、海賊的なワイルドさと装飾性、妖艶な雰囲気が融合した新しいスタイルを提案。華やかで少し大人っぽいロリータスタイルの他、荘厳な雰囲気のゴシックスタイル、ジャケットやパンツ、ハットを基本スタイルとしたクールな王子様コーディネートまで、幅広く展開します。廃墟の海賊船をイメージしたSHOPでは、宝探しのようにお買い物を楽しんで頂けます。
Founded: 2004
Designer(s): Elle, Mitsuba, Tomomi Nakamura (unclear)
Abbreviation/acronym(s): AATP*, A&P, PIRATES
Japanese: ALICE and the PIRATES OR アリスアンドザパイレーツ
Social Media: Main Instagram (their other Instagram accounts can be seen in their following list)
Sites: Main, SF online shop, JP online shop
Metamorphose Temps de Fille
Metamorphose is a Japanese brand that makes pieces in just about every substyle, and some ouji. They currently make all(?) their pieces in plus size one-sizes as well.
Kuniko Kato started Metamorphose as a freelance brand in 1993, it becoming a company in 1997 when Kuniko Kato met the current president of the brand. It was originally named Manifesteange Metamorphose Temps de Fille, with the "Manifesteange" being dropped in 2000. In 2002 they made an English language website to sell to overseas customers.
CROWN LABEL is their "secondary line" that they say is dedicated to sweet and pop items. It was founded in 2009.
Brand concept: As the brand name implies the advent of an angel, metamorphosis, transformation and the time of a little girl, "Metamorphose temps de fille" is the main brand that cherishes the girlishness of Lolita fashion and creates the clothes for you; Metamorphose's dresses transform you to be cute, be elegant or be cool.
Founded: 1993 (Freelance), 1997 (Company), 2009 (CROWN LABEL)
Designer(s): Chinatsu Taira, Natsumi (unclear)
Abbreviation/acronym(s): Metamorphose, Meta*
Japanese: Metamorphose Temps de Fille OR メタモルフォーゼ
Social Media: Instagram, Harajuku Instagram, English Twitter, Facebook
Moi-même-Moitié
Moi-même-Moitié is an iconic Japanese gothic brand founded by Mana-sama in 1999, the at the time guitarist of the Visual Kei band Malice Mizer and person responsible for coining EGL as a term. They are known for their "Moitie blue & black" color combination. It is currently sold by² Wunderwelt, with no dedicated³ physical stores.
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Brand concept: Way too long
Founded: 1999
Abbreviation/acronym(s): Moitie*, MmM*
Japanese: Moi-même-Moitié OR モワメームモワティエ
Social Media: Linktree, Instagram, Twitter (note: Facebook and YouTube links on Linktree are invalid)
ATELIER PIERROT (+Vallée lys)
Atelier Pierrot started as simply "Pierrot" in 1969, making casual clothes. A few other things happened before they moved to Laforet Harajuku¹ in 1978, and by 1993 they stocked more "Mode" and gothic clothing, before Atelier Pierrot came about in 1999. They played a big role in pioneering gothic lolita, and lolita in general, possibly naming it "gothic" in the first place. (Note: an official brief history clashes with some other things that make more sense, so uhhh) (unsure)
They also have a sister brand named Vallée lys, which I am grouping with Atelier Pierrot here, as they often do as well–it's more like a sub-line or sub-label then its own brand, in my opinion. It was made in 2019 and has a more elegant, flow-y vibe. Below, the left bottom photo is a Vallée lys overdress and harness. I'm not sure on the dress it is over.
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Brand concept: To "provide opulent and elegant designs within the world of gothic lolita fashion. Focusing on silhouette and a high standard of quality and attention to detail, our enchanting aesthetic is characterized by our signature features: corset lacing, ruffles, and princess sleeves. Atelier Pierrot celebrates the beauty of individuality, recognizing that elegance knows no bounds. Inclusivity has always been at the core of our philosophy – beyond age, gender, size, and race, everyone can be a part of the lolita dream. Each creation is a manifestation of our brand values — treasured items that allow the wearer to express their true selves, and a dedication to beauty that transcends fleeting fashion." (From The Great Lace)
Founded: 1969 (Pierrot), 1999 (Atelier Pierrot), 2019 (Vallée lys)
Designer(s): Yuko Ashizawa
Abbreviation/acronym(s): AtePie*
Japanese: アトリエピエロ
Social Media: Linktree, JP Instagram, ENG Instagram
Shop list: Scroll down on the main website page. They don't have scroll points.
Note: Their global brand ambassador, Connie, did a Q&A on Reddit a while ago.
Alpstola (Atelier BOZ)
Atelier BOZ, technically closed but living through Alpstola, was a gothic lolita & ouji brand that had been around since 1995, originally making gothic clothing before making lolita. Alpstola came about after Atelier BOZ closed from a former designer who was given access to BOZ's old patterns(?). They primarily make reproductions of Atelier BOZ designs at present.
In 1995 Takashi Shibata and Keiji Ichimura decided to start a gothic fashion brand inspired by old Europe. They started a shop in Tokyo in 2001, and Atelier Pierrot actually suggested they make lolita pieces (according to them). Atelier BOZ closed in 2021, citing various circumstances alongside the pandemic. According to one blog post I found, a newer designer was allowed to continue the brand using the manufacturers and patterns of Atelier BOZ, which seems evidently true. (Unsure – lack of sources). Atelier BOZ's brand concept is still listed on Alpstolas website, however.
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Brand concept: Dress In nightmare悪夢の中で見たドレスはこの世で1番綺麗だった。がコンセプトクラシカルなゴシックファッション、シンプルで美しいシルエットを追求しています
Atelier BOZ brand concept: 中世ヨーロッパを想わせるクラシカルでエレガントな装い清楚な美しさや可愛らしさを表現したデザインアイテムシンプルで美しいシルエットライン、ディティールにこだわった個性的なお洋服を取り揃えておりますAtelier BOZ 正規取扱店
Founded: 1995 (Atelier BOZ), 2022 (Alpstola)
Designer(s): Rachel(?)
Abbreviation/acronym(s): Boz, Alps
Japanese: アトリエBOZ OR アトリエ ボズ (Atelier Boz), I can't find katakana for Alpstola
Social Media: Instagram, Twitter
Sites: Main
Innocent World
Innocent world was founded in 1999. I can find literally nothing on the history, but I assume it was founded by the designer Yumi Fujiwara.
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Brand concept: Innocent World's designer, Yumi Fujihara, has created a new brand of clothing inspired by classical European designs that embodies the ideals of elegance and cuteness but is suitable for young women of the modern era. The brand name Innocent World brings to mind a simple world without dirt or blemish. We made this name to reflect the pure and innocent hearts of young women everywhere, at any age.
Founded: 1999
Designer(s): Yumi Fujihara
Abbreviation/acronym(s): IW*
Japanese: Innocent World (I cannot find any katakana used by the brand)
Social Media: Main Instagram, Twitter (JP)
Sites: Main, JP store, Wunderwelt Fleur
Victorian Maiden
Victorian Maiden is a Japanese staple classic brand. They advertise their more mature and refined very Victorian inspired look.
Victorian Maiden was founded in 1999. It was actually intended to close in 2018, and did, but crowdfunding saved it the same year. They were at 2023 New York Fashion Week.
Brand concept: 肌を露出せず、あらゆる欲求を押し込めて、上品であるということを第一としていたヴィクトリア時代の女性。纏う洋服の上品さに留まらないヴィクトリア時代の女性が持つ奥ゆかしさと上品さ、そして美しさをエッセンスとしてデザインに落とし込んだエレガントでコケティッシュな「大人のロリータスタイル」を提案します。[Image of a scale]天秤について…相反する美しさでさえ、最高のバランスでまとめられた一着を。そんな唯一無二の一着をご提案する、という意味を込めてヴィクトリアンメイデンの象徴としています。
Founded: 1999
Designer(s): Ayumi, any others I am unsure of (unclear)
Abbreviation/acronym(s): VM*
Japanese: Victorian Maiden (I cannot find any katakana used by the brand)
Social Media: Instagram, Twitter, Facebook
Sites: Main
Mary Magdalene
Mary Magdalene is a Japanese classic brand with quite a few sweet-classic pieces, and a few other styles mixed in. They are known for their coats.
Mary Magdalene was founded by designer Tanaka Rikiko, formerly of Victorian Maiden. It was closed in 2019, then reopened in September of 2020.
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Brand concept: Available on their website (above main shop navigation)*
Founded: ~2002
Designer(s): Tanaka(?)
Abbreviation/acronym(s): MM
Japanese: Mary Magdalene OR メアリーマグダレン
Social Media: N/A?
Sites: Main
Shop list is available on their website (above footer)*
*They strangely request you only link their main webpage and no other pages, this is after stating the most outdated thing regarding websites ever but I am respecting this nonetheless?
Juliette et Justine
Juliette et Justine was founded in 2001 by their head designer Mari Nakamura.
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"Galerie" (fan-submitted styling gallery)
Brand concept: View here
Founded: 2001
Designer(s): Mari Nakamura (head)
Abbreviation/acronym(s): JeJ*
Japanese: Juliette et Justine (I cannot find any katakana used by the brand)
Social Media: Instagram, Facebook, ENG Facebook, Twitter
Emily Temple CUTE
Shirley Temple was a children's brand started in 1974, an offshoot and adult counterpart created in Emily Temple CUTE. They also had a tween brand named Emily Temple, started in 1983 and discontinued in 2002, alongside a few other ones. In 2012 Emily Temple Cute became its own company, and is completely separate from Shirley Temple. Despite filing for bankruptcy that same year, Shirley Temple still exists, if you're curious.
I am unsure of the capitalization of cute. It seems inconsistent, so I assumed they used to do it but it has since been stopped? Or maybe it's like how ALICE and the PIRATES is always just Alice and the Pirates because no one cares.
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Brand concept: 大胆なモチーフをベースに不変的な可愛らしさを表現旬なトレンドにアクセントを効かせたcute CLOSET
Founded: 1999
Abbreviation/acronym(s): ETC*
Japanese: Emily Temple CUTE/Cute (I cannot find any katakana used by the brand)
Social Media: Instagram, Twitter, Facebook
Shop list (they're also available² in Harajuku Hearts and Lolita Collective)
Hoshibako Works
Hoshibako Works is a Chinese & Japanese lolita brand with a very distinct sweet-classic-sometimes-country-borderline-hime style, I think it can best be described as "gorgeous." They make a lot of accessories.
Hoshibako Works was created as a Taobao shop in 2017, not doing much until 2020 where the owner went on to graduate school and collaborate with a Japanese business partner called Shigure. Hoshibako Works gained quite a bit more notoriety in the west from collaborations with various media, such as Touhou Project and Cardcaptor Sakura, in my opinion.
Hoshibako Works is a newer and smaller lolita brand, as you may gather, but I keep seeing them pop up so I figured they'd be a good addition. They often have ad spreads in Otome no Sewing.
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Brand concept: 星屑を集めた宝石箱キラキラしたモノ、ステキなモノ、キラメキや輝く才能、それらを形にしたモノをぎゅうっと詰め込んだ小さな宇宙。
Founded: 2017
Designer(s): Name unknown to me & Shigure-san
Abbreviation/acronym(s): N/A
Chinese (& Japanese): HoshibakoWorks OR 星箱Works OR 星箱 (Hoshibako) OR 星箱设计 (pinyin: xīngxiāng shèjì)
Social Media: Instagram, Twitter, Weibo
Sites: Main, Taobao (Link ver 2. for TB – same webpage)
Shop list (Also available² at Harajuku Hearts)
The Black Ribbon
The Black Ribbon is a California, USA based lolita brand making multiple substyles. As they describe themselves for BAK events, "The Black Ribbon is a San Francisco-based brand focused on small batch production both in-house, and at local factories. They draw inspiration from their favorite fashion eras and textiles found in their sourcing process." They are primarily known for the designer also being the chair of an organization that hosts Jfashion events, Bay Area Kei (BAK). The Black Ribbon also carries other brands on their website and at conventions². They are very well known in the Bay Area of California.
The Black Ribbon was created by Halley in 2013, though their Facebook account was made in 2011.
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Brand concept: Contemporary Indie Fashion - We strive to create pieces that work into any wardrobe, not just lolita, not just alternative. / Created in 2013, The Black Ribbon features garments carefully crafted in the USA. We strive to provide classic pieces that could be for anyone no matter what their style. Lolita is our inspiration not our mould. (Both from their Facebook)
Founded: 2013
Designer(s): Halley Malison
Abbreviation/acronym(s): TBR
Social Media: Instagram, Facebook
Sites: Main
Also buy at²: The Lolita Collective, conventions
Dreamy Pebble
Dreamy Pebble is an American self-described artist indie brand. Known primarily for their bags that look like animals, they also make accessories and occasional clothing. They take commission and make primarily handmade small-batch items.
Stephanie's first post on the Dreamy Pebble instagram account is dated back to September 22, 2019. Part of the caption read "New one-off items will be posted for sale every so often, and I also accept commissions!" The account initially posted accessories and occasional pieces of clothing, with the first cat-style bag inspired by Putumayo posted on January 3, 2021.
Brand concept: Frilly things that make you smile! (this is actually just their instagram bio...)
Founded: 2019
Designer(s): Stephanie
Abbreviation/acronym(s): N/A?
Social Media: Instagram
Sites: Carrd, Ko-fi shop
Bodyline
Bodyline was started as a costume brand, later going on to make cheap lolita fashion. Their former owner, Mr. Yan, is renowned for (technically allegedly) being crazy and a creep beyond legality, making a body pillow of himself alongside various activities you don't want me to mention.
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Brand concept: Being cheap, I guess?
Founded: 2001
Abbreviation/acronym(s): N/A
Japanese: Bodyline
Social Media: Instagram, Facebook
Sites: Main
MILK
MILK is at present a more casual Japanese women & mens brand, not making dedicated lolita pieces. They still make many kawaii or otherwise alternative pieces (otome and girly being what they are mainly categorized as), but they are clearly trying to have more mainstream appeal. They have never strictly been a lolita brand, but are one of the oldest Harajuku brands and were featured in lolita coordinates thoroughly throughout the 90s-2000s.
Hitomi Okawa founded MILK in 1970. She was inspired by American fashion during the 50s and 60s, later stating that what was then now called lolita fashion was what they had been making for a while. They started as expensive and a bit too extravagant for everyday wear, but eventually became some people's daily wear. In the late 80s some of their feminine pieces started to resemble lolita, and by the early 90s they were featured in many lolita coordinates.
Founded: 1970
Abbreviation/acronym(s): N/A
Japanese: MILK (can't find any katakana used by them)
Jane Marple
Jane Marple was a more casual lolita brand. At present, they don't seem to make many directly lolita pieces, though their shoes and tops are very lolita-esque.
Jane Marple was founded by Yasuhiro Narita and Megumi Murano in 1985, opening a Laforet Harajuku¹ store in 1988. I am unsure of anything past then. It is named after an Agatha Christie character, and the company that owns it is named after a street, St. Mary Mead Co., Ltd.
I'd just like to add that they made an extremely blatantly racist dress (content warning for link) in 2014. I do not know if whatever designer(s) works with JM currently or if they ever apologized, I'd just like to put that out there. I can't find anything else on it other than it existed in like three different cuts.
Founded: 1985
Designer(s): Unknown to me
Abbreviation/acronym(s): JM*
Japanese: Jane Marple (I couldn't find any katakana.)
Social Media: Instagram, Twitter
Sites: Main
MORE BRANDS TBA! SUGGEST ANY, EVEN SMALL BRANDS!
Footnotes
- Laforet Harajuku (ラフォーレ原宿) was opened in 1978. "Laforet Harajuku is a department store, residence, and museum complex located in the Harajuku commercial and entertainment district of the Shibuya neighborhood, in Tokyo, Japan." - Wikipedia
- Select stores, stockists, and any mention of being "sold by" or "available at" a company/shop is a retailer that does not own the brand but has a license/deal to sell their products. Like a grocery store or target.
- Dedicated stores is referring to stores that only sell one brand, or in some cases I semi-incorrectly use it to refer to stores owned by a brand.
Sources
- Every brands own website
- The Entire History of Lolita Fashion [timeline]
- Lolita History: Pretty
- An Evolutionary History of Lyrical Bunny & Friends!
- Usakumya's Backstory
- Rainedragon on ETC
- EMILY TEMPLE CUTE
- My New Favorite Brand: Hoshibako Works (Star Box Design/星箱设计)
- Featured Brand Guest: Atelier Pierrot
- Atelier Pierrot: Brand History, Where to Buy, News
- Atelier Boz: Brand History, Style, Where to Buy
- Mini Lolita Fashion History Lesson: MILK
- Fandom Wiki
- Lolibrary
- Lolibrary Wiki (Which I only found out existed HALFWAY THROUGH THIS LIST)
- Wikipedia
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